One Woman Revival

In an effort to fend off post-vacation blues after returning from a trip to Italy, I decided to be a tourist in my own city and made my way to the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory in Chinatown. San Francisco has the oldest Chinatown in the United States, if not globally, officially dubbed “Chinatown” by local newspapers in 1853 though immigration from China had been picking up since the 1840s. It seemed a fitting follow up to my Saturday last month spent camping on Angel Island, which was also the port of entry for immigrants from Asia, to spend a Saturday in the bustling community founded by the people who passed through that gateway to the United States. 

I walked from SOMA to Portsmouth Square Park and paused at the corner of Clay & Kearny to triangulate directions. Out of the corner of my eye, I caught the word “chai” written on a store awning. I am of Indian descent and was surprised by this particular caffeinated beverage at the edge of Chinatown. Further inspection revealed a shop no bigger than a kiosk called Cookie Chachi (chachi meaning big sister). Flavors of cookie included cardamon and date, chocolate chip, and jalebi. I got one of each for the sake of reporting back to all of you on their quality (ok, pretty good and delicious – you’re welcome) and then continued on my way to get yet more cookies. 

I turned down an alleyway in Chinatown and was almost to my destination when I was confronted by the ultimate scourge of San Francisco, inexplicably long lines. A banner above the doorway announced that GG Fortune Cookie Factory was celebrating its 62nd anniversary and a chain of eager patrons snaked out from under it. I occupied myself while I waited by looking up the history of fortune cookies. Turns out they are derived from a sesame and miso flavored cracker made in Japan. Initially, Japanese immigrants came to San Francisco to fill a labor shortage created by the Chinese Exclusion Act in 1882. But then the executive order for Japanese internment between 1942 to 1945 caused Japanese bakeries making fortune cookies to close and Chinese manufacturers took over production. In that way, fortune cookies survived the oscillating xenophobia in the United States of the 20^th century. Since then, all racist sentiments have been resolved and America is moving forward without any issues or backsliding. Thank you, fortune cookies.

When my turn came up to purchase my fortune cookies, I peered into the factory behind the register where machines whirred away creating the cookie in flat form and then it was hand folded with requisite paper slip. I had selected a box from a colorful selection of chocolate covered fortune cookies on my way into the tiny store, my item was quickly rung up and I was hurried out to make way for the next customer. Back in the alleyway, snacking on a few loose flat cookies that had been thrown in as freebies, I considered the taste of the fortune cookie. Yes, it was not too sweet or strongly flavored but to me it tasted like resilience.